Welcome aboard to the world’s biggest 7 day blues party! Yes friends, 7 days where you can’t tell the blues artists from the fans. Although everybody’s experience is different –and a blues cruise vacation is exactly what you make it– a good time is had by all… day after day!
So I’m going to tell you about my
experience on my 4th LRBC a few weeks ago. I try to get on board pretty early so I can
learn the layout of the ship and how to get from concert venue to concert venue
in the most efficient manner. And by
doing so you get to see and talk to some of the artists before any action
really starts. Right off the bat I ran
into Cyril Neville who was as lost as my wife and I. Later I saw Lucky Peterson on a lounge chair
outside his stateroom while walking the Promenade Deck.
The first night they always have a
BBQ on the pool deck at departure. This time it was Rick Estrin and the
Nightcats hosting the BBQ. The best part being when Kid Anderson went into a
guitar solo playing slide with a cell phone. Next came the Virgin and Returnee
Parties. The artists for these are never
announced. As a returnee I went for my free champagne at the Showroom at
Sea. And to kick it all off was Los
Lobos with Lee Oskar on harp. Talk about setting the bar high. These guys were fantastic! I had seen Lee Oskar a few years ago with the
Low Rider Band (the band formerly known as WAR but due to legal limitations
cannot bill themselves as WAR any more). But I swear Lee was better with Los
Lobos who were great in their own right.
The consensus opinion was that this was the best Returnee Party in
history.
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Lee Oskar jams with Los Lobos at the
Returnee Party
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After that we stayed at the Showroom
to check out Walter “Wolfman” Washington.
He was one of the artists I specifically
wanted to see on this cruise. Bman had
turned me on to Walter back in about 1991 and I’d never gotten a chance to see
him live. I was not disappointed.
Wolfman Washington with his jazz-infused, New Orleans funk style
blues was great. Sadly not too many
people attended this show. I imagine on account of going to see Ruthie Foster
instead. When Ruthie’s set ended the crowd packed into Walter’s gig for the
last half hour.
As for me, when Walter’s set ended I
went out to the Pool Deck to hear Royal Southern Brotherhood. But I only heard a few tunes featuring mostly
Mike Zito because I had to head back to the Showroom for Irma Thomas. That’s the dilemma about the Blues Cruise.
There’s so many good people to see and you just can’t possibly be in two places
at once. Well, Irma Thomas was
great. She did not work from a set list.
She just said “This is not your regular kind of show. I’m gonna call the tunes
unless there’s something special you want to hear. Let me know what it is and
we’ll do it.” Irma would not be the only
artist to take that approach.
Day two was in Key West, FL. Supposedly for Fantasy Fest which started the
night before. But by pulling into port
at 8:30am all the naked spray painted Fantasy Fest breasts, and other body
parts, were all in bed sleeping from the previous evening. So we had our own Second Line parade up Duval Street led by
keyboardist, Mitch Woods, dressed as Liberace and the Wild Magnolias (Big Chief
Monk Boudreaux and Big Chief Bo Dollis Jr.).
It terminated at Sloppy Joes Bar where Mitch led a jam that lasted from
10:00am until 3:00pm.
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| Big Chief Bo Dollis Jr. and Big Chief Monk Boudreaux lead the parade to Sloppy Joe’s |
Toward the end of the jam, Walter
“Wolfman” Washington
joined Mitch and the band for a couple numbers. When he came down off the stage
I got to talk to Walter and joke around with him. What a great guy! You may not
know this, but Walter was one of the first “name” artists who started to play New Orleans after
Hurricane Katrina. There are many who
say he saved music in New Orleans after the
hurricane because so many musicians had fled to Houston,
Dallas, San Francisco
and all points in between to make a living since most clubs in New Orleans had shut down. But not Walter. He
immediately began playing his regular gigs most notably at the Maple Leaf Bar
–where he still has a weekly gig. When people saw Walter back, they came back
too!
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| Stilladog and Walter “Wolfman” Washington sharing a joke outside Sloppy Joe’s in Key West |
So at 5:30 the ship had to leave Mallory Square in Key West cause if any of
you have ever been there for the Sunset Party (Circus) which happens every
night… well you just can’t have a huge freakin’ cruise ship obstructing your
view. But that’s OK with us ‘cause Our
Ship Kicks Ass and we gonna have a good time anyway.
And sure enough we did. Reason why?
Dwayne Dopsie and the Zydeco Hellraisers!
Over the course of the cruise I saw these guys play 3 gigs and they were
absolute Zydeco Dynamite on every one!!
Led by accordionist Dwayne Dopsie, and fueled by saxophonist Reginald
Smith and washboard man, Paul LeFleur (The Marlboro Man) they rocked the
ship. What a passionate performance! I
can personally attest to the fact that the man was soaked from head to toe at
the end of every set. Even the dude’s
jeans were completely soaked!
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| Pool Deck zydeco duel between Dwayne Dopsie & Paul LeFleur |
A day at sea is always filled with
great blues and it took us a day and something to get from Key
West to New Orleans.
It was a Sunday and we got the day started with a Gospel Brunch with Ruthie
Foster which was fantastic!
The rest of day three was highlighted
by more of Dwayne Dopsie and the Zydeco Hellraisers, the hardest working band
on the ship! A set by Popa Chubby on the Pool Deck was particularly good. Man
he really ripped the place up. I was extremely impressed with Popa Chubby. I knew
he was good, but not that good! Reminded me of Leslie West. In fact, better than Leslie West even. And
that’s saying something.
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| Popa Chubby rocks the Pool Deck |
Coming up the Mississippi into New
Orleans I had the pleasure of enjoying the ride with Dion Pierre – bass man for
the Zydeco Hellraisers and Kevin Minor –drummer for the Zydeco Hellraisers (and
alumni of Hopewell High School in Aliquippa, PA) both of whom call New Orleans
home. We passed the bayous and
levees. Up past the New Orleans
Battleground where Andrew Jackson and the pirate, Jean LaFitte, defeated the
British in 1814. To the canal in the 9th
ward where Minor pointed out to me “That’s the canal that flooded and fucked up
all this area over here.” Very few people approach the city from this direction
and it was clearly impressive even to the folks who live there.
The city was impressive too. My wife
and I walked about 8.5 miles that day. Started out for an Oyster Po’ Boy at
Mother’s on Poydras. Then down past the
House of Blues on Decatur
into the French Quarter. Up to
Preservation Hall. Past the Old Absinthe House. Over to the St. Charles Trolley
and a trip out past the Garden District to the famous Maple Leaf Bar home of New Orleans blues, jazz,
zydeco, and everything in between for as long as anyone can remember. A few
beers and some serious music discussion with Regan the bartender and then a
trolley trip back into town. Arriving just in time for a bus ride out to the Mid-City
Lanes Rock N Bowl where we heard the wonderful guitarist June Yamagishi (who
you can see in the HBO series Treme’).
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| June Yamagishi at Mid-City Lanes Rock N Bowl |
Another day at sea followed featuring
Ft. Lauderdale guitarist, Albert Castilia,
whose set was accompanied by guests, Samantha Fish and Mike Zito. It is about at this point in the trip that
musicians who jam together until 4:00am every night on the pool deck begin to
crash each other’s scheduled sets and you never know who you might see or
where. Johnny Winter? Kim Wilson? Rev.
Billy C. Wirtz? Andy Forrest? Dave Keyes?
Jimmy Carpenter? They were all there and would just show up. It was great!! Lucky Peterson was also a high point of the sets I saw on our way to
Progreso, MX.
In Mexico,
I guess the people who took the tour of the Mayan ruins enjoyed Mexico but I
opted to stay on the ship and drink poolside all afternoon. It was a good choice. It was a day of
relaxation for the musicians. And they were hanging poolside too. I never
intruded on their personal time but it was very cool to observe, for instance,
a conversation between Kim Wilson, Rick Estrin, and Lee Oskar. Now that’s some harp royalty right
there! Ruthie Foster and her band just
kicking back with some fans. We caught a bit of Anson Funderburgh and Eric
Lindell’s set early that evening too.
At 6:30 the next morning I headed
back to the pool for the Sunrise Party except there was no sun. It was cloudy and we had some pretty damn
rough seas. So rough the pool water was completely splashing out 7 feet high!!
Somebody smuggled in some tequila and vodka and I mixed my own Bloody Mary and
hung out with my fellow cruisers for a jello shooter to celebrate our last day
in Blues Heaven on water. Had a hell of
a time keeping my balance but I was better off than those who get seasick.
The feature of the last day was the
Lucky Peterson Jam on the pool deck which was going great until Lucky decided
to play some disco music and everybody kinda just walked away. Right up until that it was smokin’. But artists need to understand it’s the blues
people come to hear and even though I agree with the Etta James claim that
“It’s all blues, baby” other’s don’t.
The last set I saw was Marcia Ball
who also just said, “Call the tune and I’ll play it.” I had not seen Marcia
since 1999 at the Superdome in New
Orleans and not much has changed except we’re both
older and grayer. She still rocks on that
electric piano and swings her long crossed leg the whole time.
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| Marcia Ball |
Back in Florida I found myself waiting for my family
to pick us up at the port alongside Popa Chubby. We all just turn into one big
blues family on the Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise. It is an experience I highly recommend not
only because the music is fantastic but it’s a very relaxing vacation. I’ll be on the next one in January too, hope
to see you on board. I’ll be hanging in the Crow’s Nest. Just say, “Whatcha drinking, Stilladog?” And I’ll
know you are a Bman’s Blues Report fan.
